By Brigitta Hauser-Schaublin, Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff, Urs Ramseyer
Originally released in 1991, in organization with the Museum der Kulturen, Basel.
This electronic version released 2012
In this fantastically illustrated publication, 3 specialists research the historical past, construction and makes use of of textiles in Balinese society. Many superb items are offered, their uncooked fabrics and techniques of weaving and dyeing are defined, and the complicated symbolism and formality features of every are defined intimately.
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Extra info for Balinese Textiles
Factors that can be clearly calculated and foreseen in the manufactory are often much vaguer in the home. These pressures often impose suffering on the home weaver. A SIDEMEN MANUFACTORY Let us consider two examples more closely, taking a manufactory first. 11 (preceding pages): Half of an outer hip cloth for men (kampuh) with a depiction of the demon Kalarau. Endek and perada on silk. Karangasem or Khmgkung, 1920-30. 143 x 68 cm. • MEB IIc 18513a. 13 (above): Women attending the cremation of a brahman priestess, dressed in formal apparel with a wraparound skirt of songket and endek in the geringsing style.
4 0 CHAPTER THREE social status. Anyone who has acquired some sort of position in Balinese society today, and can afford to buy them, is now authorized to display his or her status at religious and social functions through the use of songket Thus songket has become an integral part of the ceremonial wardrobe of all well-to-do Balinese people. B A L I N E S E FESTIVE D R E S S The festive apparel of the Balinese consists of a number of lengths of cloth of various sizes, which are never tailored but rather draped, wrapped and tied around the body with great artistry.
Typologically, the Balinese cagcag belongs to a category of backstrap looms found also in Sumatra and Java. This loom can produce only cloths of a limited width; for this reason, large cloths necessarily consist of two widths sewn together. The flat, discontinuous warp is stretched taut between a board-shaped warp beam (12) in two sturdy forked posts (13) at the back and the breast-cum-cloth beam (2) at the front. The weaver sits on the ground and secures the breast beam firmly to herself by means of a wooden yoke (1; Fig.